On the pulpit
of the Cathedral of Tlaxcala is a very old inscription that reads: “Aqui tubo
principio el Sto Evangelio en este Nuevo Mundo” - “Here had its beginning the
Gospel in this New World”.
 |
| The Pulpit |
The Spanish Conquistadores advanced on Tenochtítlan
from the Caribbean coast via Tlaxcala. Cortez’s troops defeated several subject
nations of the Mexica people (roughly what we call the Aztecs). These defeated
nations, like the Tlaxcaltecas, joined the Spanish. Cortez couldn’t have
defeated Moctezuma without their help. The Conquistadores
were accompanied by their chaplains: priests and friars. Some of these priests
were looking to make their fortune; others were interested in converting the
Indians. The sword and the cross conquered together…
 |
| The interior of the Cathedral |
 |
| Chapel of San Francisco |
Having been almost
slaves of the Mexica Empire, most were quite happy to go to war against their
old rulers. So much so that the tlaxcaltecas, after participating in the defeat of the Mexicas on the 12th
of August 1521, returned to Tlaxcala. After several years when they converted,
the Assumption of Mary was adopted as their patronal feast (The feast falls on
the 15th of August, three days after “their victory over
Tenochtítlan-Mexica alongside their allies, the Spaniards”). The Cathedral of
Tlaxcala is dedicated to the Assumption.
 |
| The Main Altar |
Interestingly
Tlaxcala was considered a republic, vassal directly of the Spanish Crown,
whereas the other provinces were part of the viceroyalty of “New Spain”, which
in its turn was a vassal state of Spain.
When Franciscan
friars arrived in 1524 they began the conversion of the Indians. They
constructed an “open chapel” to facilitate this. Apparently the Indians were
uncomfortable in an enclosed church. This building underwent several rebuilds
in the early 17th century, but still exists. Baptisms were carried
out here.
 |
| The Open Chapel |
Inside the
Cathedral exists an old baptismal font hewn from rock. An inscription claims
that the first baptisms of four Indian “princes” took place in the font in
1520. One of their godfathers was Hernán Cortéz, the captain of the Conquistadores.
 |
| Baptismal Font - from 1520 |
In 1541 Mary
appeared on a hill, Ocotlán, overlooking Tlaxcala. There seems to have been
some confusion between the Assumption of Mary and the Immaculate Conception –
perhaps because the Indians had heard of the Assumption and adopted this
devotion, but seen a painting of the Immaculate Conception and copied that. The
statue in the shrine at Ocotlán is of the Immaculate Conception! An easy
mistake to make!
 |
| The Interior of the Shrine of Ocotlán |
 |
| The Assumption/Immaculate Conception... |
Below the
Cathedral is the bullring. It is the oldest in Mexico. There was a group of
kids, practicing their manoeuvres. A lad with a rake was the bull; the toreador
used a cape and a small sword. Father Alejandro showed us some moves – learnt
while a lad himself on the family bull ranch.
 |
| The bullring from the Cathedral |
 |
| Peter has a go with the cape. |
 |
| The tower is the bell-tower of the Cathedral - and a Scotsman's stand (apologies to Willy!) |
|
|
 |
| A raging bull! |
|
|
 |
| The Tunnel |
Alejandro shows how it's done!
A video of the kids in the bullring
No comments:
Post a Comment