Monday 26 November 2012

Mighty Monarchs!


Last week México celebrated the anniversary of the 1810 revolution. The date fell on Tuesday.  Most businesses took Monday instead – except for Government departments and schools that took Tuesday  - and just didn’t bother about turning up for work Monday!

We took Monday off and headed out into the Sierra Madre mountains in the hinterland of Mexico State. The Monarch Butterflies had begun arriving at the various sanctuaries in Mexico State and neighbouring Michoacán State. 
Our guide, Ricardo, points out the spots on the male Monarch

Our journey flanked the volcano, Xinantécatl that presides over Toluca. After a little more than an hour’s drive through lush pine forests we arrived at Piedra Herrada.
Local villagers run this eco-tourism centre, situated in a valley at about 2500 metres above sea level. Groups are limited and have to be guided. We already noticed a few monarchs flying around. We engaged a guide and set off.
As we climbed along a wide path winding through the forest we began to see more and more butterflies. They were mostly sitting in sunny clearing on damp earth or flowers. As the sun warms them, they fly down the mountain in search of water and nectar.

Our trek took sometime. We were stopping at every gathering of butterflies! Finally we arrived at where the Monarchs were “roosting” – on Cyprus trees at about 3200 metres (And, yes, the last few hundred metres were a bit of a slog!)

These Monarchs had flown from Canada and the United States – a journey of up to 5000km! They winter over in Mexico in twelve mountain sites. They don’t reproduce in Mexico. In spring (March here) they begin the journey back north. These butterflies wont be back. It will be a year and the fourth generation that returns – to a place they have never seen!

We visited early in the season – they had just opened the sanctuary. The butterflies were still arriving. The experience of seeing thousands of Monarchs in one place – and to hear their collective wing beats as they swarm is truly extraordinary. 

After the visit we headed off for lunch at Valle de Bravo – a small colonial town on the shores of a man-made lake. Soon after leaving the sanctuary, we began to encounter butterflies drifting across the highway. The passing lanes on the road were closed. The federal police were in attendance, all to make sure no one drove faster than 15km per hour and so avoid killing the Monarchs. This made me laugh. Mexican cops are not so good at doing this for humans!
That's a horse in the overtaking lane!
Valle de Bravo

There’s a new film coming out soon about these amazing creatures. You can watch the trailer at http://youtu.be/FvFEoYFZKqQ
My own humble film (done on a digital camera) is here: http://youtu.be/nnHWOk2lFL0

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