Fiesta de San Bernardino de Siena

Fiesta de San Bernardino de Siena, a set on Flickr.

Yesterday was Ascension Sunday here in Mexico. It was also the feast day of St Bernard of Siena. In our parish that meant that we celebrated both - but mostly the Fiesta de San Bernardino de Siena! To make things a little more complicated, we also had the Bishop here to celebrate Confirmations...

The parish also tries to make a little money during the Fiesta - so all the parish groups organize stalls - mostly food. The youth from the Centro de Proyección Universitaria (which I found out this week is a non-geographical University Parish!) organized desserts: flan, brownies, strawberries and cream, cakes etc. These went on sale at 7.00am. And people were buying...

There was also a "Marriage Celebrant" - one of the lads dressed in an old red soutane and surplus who for a small fee "married" any couple amidst great hilarity! A popular activity was the greasy pole - teams attempted to climb it to retrieve prizes. A miracle no-one was killed - particularly the small children dancing around the bottom dodging the prizes as they were thrown down by the chap at the top!

All in all a successful day...

Guadalupe

Yesterday I went to “Mexico”. Locals refer to Mexico City (Ciudad de Mexico) simply as “Mexico” or “DF” for Distrito Federal. The original people of the region were the Mexica and founded the city of Tenochtitlán where the city is now.

The greater part of the city is in the Federal District, an administrative region separate from the other regional States of Mexico. Mexico City’s 25 million inhabitants now overflow the DF.

The Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe - note the lean on the older basilica.

I would guess that most of them were either in the metro or in their cars yesterday. Auckland has nothing on Mexico for congestion!

I went, with a Mexican seminarian, David, to the Basilica of Guadalupe, patron of Mexico and the Americas.

Actually it is a complex of at least five churches! The largest and most modern is the Basilica of Santa María de Guadalupe. Since 1976, the original painting of Holy Mary of Guadalupe is on view here. You can get a closer look by going under the sanctuary of the church where there are several moving walkways crossing in front of the image. I imagine they're to prevent you camping there whilst saying your rosary! I was able to go back and forth without any problems, although I guess when there are huge crowds there (I estimate there were only a few thousand in the basilica!) they would move you on.

The inside of the Basilica - you can just see the painting on the centre wall

The Original Image

The Moving Walkway - under the Sanctuary

We visited the second church dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. This is one begun in 1695. It’s a miracle it hasn’t fallen down. The building is leaning toward the front. It must be a metre or two out of whack at the top. They’ve stabilized it now, so it won’t move any further. The hope is to restore it to level. It can’t be too bad, it does survive Mexico’s frequent earthquakes!

During the Cristero war, a bomb, hidden in a floral arrangement, exploded under the main altar. It caused little damage. A crucifix was bent in two preventing, according to the locals, any damage to the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe. The church is open, and there’s exposition of the Blessed Sacrament here 24 hours a day. I noticed I had to climb a slight incline as I entered – and almost got up to a jog leaving (due to the slope caused by subsidence!)

We also climbed the hill of Tepeyac – where Mary appeared to the Indian Juan Diego. I confess I was a little puffed going up the steps to the top – even though it’s not a great climb. I guess I haven’t got used to the altitude yet. Up on the hill is the St Michael chapel, built in 1749 to replace an earlier church (1666). It was here that Juan Diego collected the roses local to Durango in Castilla, Spain. Juan was to show them to the bishop, a native of Durango, to prove that Mary had appeared to him.

Looking over Mexico City - the old Basilica (right) and Convent in front.

Inside there are murals depicting the appearance of Mary to Juan Diego and subsequent events. It’s dedicated to St Michael Archangel as protector of Mary. According to tradition it was him who delivered the painting from heaven to Juan Diego. 

St Michael Archangel

There are several other churches – a parish church, a chapel, which is believed to be where Mary appeared to Juan Diego, another chapel called the Chapel of the Indians and a convent – empty at the moment due to subsidence. 

One of the murals in the Chapel of St Michael

I bought a key ring to remind me of my visit! A bargain at 25 pesos – NZ$2.30!

In the afternoon we tried to go to visit the centre of Mexico City, the Zocalo – the main plaza. The trip is something like 14 stops on the metro and several changes of line. Not a problem usually – except Paul McCartney is giving a free concert today in the Zocalo and yesterday the metro lines were even more crowded than usual. And for some reason they announced rain delays. 

With David - Mexico City disappearing into the gloom

So we abandoned our visit. On the way back rushing to catch a train, David was able to enter the unit. I was only able to get a foot in, which the door closed on! Trapped by the foot I had visions of train surfing to the next station. I expected the door to open. It wasn’t opening. I managed to pull my foot out before the train moved off. I had to yell and ask David how many stops before I could meet up with him.

They told me the conductor is responsible for opening the doors when they close on someone. He must have thought he’d give this gringo a fright and not open the doors! Or he was asleep – both quite possible!

The Cristiada II

I finally got to see the movie, The Cristiada. It's a must see if you're interested in Mexico. Apparently this is a part of Mexican history that is not taught in the national history syllabus. It's too controversial. The movie is very sympathetic to the Cristeros. For example the part where Padre Vega orders the train burnt - in the movie it's an accident that 51 civilians are burnt alive. Padre Vega, in general, gets a more positive slant on his life and actions. He was, by most accounts, a bit of a black sheep in Jesus' flock!

Jose Sanchez del Rio with the Cristeros Army

And the church wasn't universally in favour of the Cristiada. But the movie does recount some of the better known events: the martyrdom of Padre Francisco Vera (played by Peter O'Toole in the movie) and of Jose  Sanchez del Rio, aged 14. It seems that the lad wasn't inspired by Padre Vera or even met with  Gorostieta (the Cristeros General, played by Andy Garcia). There's been a little poetic license used in the writing of the movie! Below I've included an account of Jose Luis's life and death.

Even with its inaccuracies, the movie is certainly worth a look.

I've begun reading a history of the Cristiada by French historian Jean Meyer. Three volumes! Early in 2013 the CPU takes a pilgrimage of students to the national young people's celebration of Christ the King held on the hill of Cubilete. I need to know a bit more about it!

The Monument of Christ the King on Cubilete Hill.

The Story of Jose Luis Sanchez del Rio .

In 1927, Catholic Mexico was immersed in a violent storm of religious persecution. The President of Mexico at that time was a despot named Plutarco Calles.  His hatred for the Church had no limits. He killed priests and burned churches.

In legitimate self defense, countless Catholics took up arms to defend their Faith.  Whenever they charged into battle, the Cristeros, as they were called, shouted: "Viva Cristo Rey!" "Long live Christ the King!"

Jose Luis Sanchez del Rio

Young Jose Joins the Cristeros

Many Catholics shed their blood in this conflict.  Many were martyred. And Blessed Jose Luis Sanchez del Rio was among them.  From a young age he had a great love and enthusiasm for the Blessed Sacrament, and encouraged his friends to have more devotion to Our Lord and Our Lady of Guadalupe.  Whenever Jose heard of the glorious battles of the Cristeros, which his two brothers were engaged in, his desire to join the holy army only intensified.  Finally, Jose wrote a letter to one of the Cristero Generals, Prudencio Mendoza, pleading to be allowed to fight. The general acquiesced.

Capture and Imprisonment

In a certain battle, Jose was rushing to bring a fellow soldier a new supply of ammo.  Just then, he caught sight of the General whose horse had been shot dead.  On foot, without a horse, the General was extremely vulnerable. 

Making a sacrifice that might cost him his life, Jose freely gave the general his own horse.  Moments later, he was caught by the federalists and locked up in a church sacristy that had been turned into a prison.  One of the guards had put a number of expensive fighting roosters inside the church for safekeeping.  This sacrilege troubled young Jose. He said: "This is not a barnyard! This is a place for God!"  He soon caught all the prized roosters and snapped their necks.

The enemies of Christ the King soon decided to kill him.

Holy Boldness in Defense of the Faith

On the way to execution, soldiers struck him savagely with sharp machetes.  With every blow, the young boy cried out, "Viva Cristo Rey!"  When he got to the cemetery, he was bleeding heavily.  His torturers had also cut off the soles of his feet and forced him to walk on salt.  The boy screamed with pain but would not give in.  As the road was nothing but rocks and dirt, the stones where he had walked were soaked in his blood.  The soldiers said:  "If you shout, ‘Death to Christ the King’, we will spare your life."  He only answered: "Long live Christ the King! Long live Our Lady of Guadalupe!"

The commander ordered the soldiers to bayonet Jose.  They pierced his body.   But with every stab he only shouted louder and louder: "Viva Cristo Rey!"  The commander was so enraged that he pulled out his pistol and on February 10, 1928 killed Blessed Jose on the spot.  There was no trial.

He was declared a martyr and was beatified by Pope Benedict XVI on November 20, 2005.

The CPU - not the Central Processing Unit!

I’m getting to know what my work here will be. I’ve assumed the responsibility of directing the Centro de Proyección Universitaria aka the Centre for University Projection. It makes more sense in Spanish! It’s essentially a chaplaincy aimed (projected?) at university students. Some refer to the work as the University Parish, but there is divided opinion on whether or not it is a real university parish. I might find that out some day…

The local bishop asked the Society of Mary to develop this work, and soon after they built a monolithic three story building to house the work and the Marist community. It is big, very big! The local provincial calls it the bunker! It certainly resembles Soviet era architecture. 

The CPU Building

Soon the building is to have another purpose as well. The third story is being developed – making 10 accommodation rooms for the Mexican seminarians. I’m to have something to do with them as well, it seems. It’s still a little vague just what. For the time being I’m living and helping out at the nearby Marist parish of San Bernardino.

The other two floors have teaching spaces, administration, library, a kitchen and the usual amenities. It also includes an space called the Chapel – a misnomer for a huge auditorium with a sloping floor, with room for seating around 250 people.

The Youth arriving for Mass

There are around 7 or 8 groups that meet in the CPU. They are well organized – at least in theory! Their principle meetings are mostly on Saturday afternoon, beginning at 5.00pm and finishing with Mass at 7.00pm. There are groups for University students, for youth and for adolescents.

The group (called apostolado or apostolate) leaders meet during the week – with at least one meeting beginning at 9.00pm! The emphasis is heavily on formation – human and religious. Each group runs two retreats over a weekend each year. One group is a mission group. They visit a rural village over Holy Week and do mostly catechesis and visitation.

Fr Jean, Seminarian David and "Coco" as altar server during the Saturday night Vigil Mass at the CPU

Each group has leaders involved in coordination of the group, finances and formation. And these meet at least once a month among themselves and with the director of the CPU – me! I’ll be heavily involved in doing some of the formation work with leaders and the groups.

From the little I’ve seen and experienced so far, it seems there is some room for developing these groups – extending them, and in some cases re-directing them back to their original purpose. For example, the University Students’ Group. There are few university students left in the group, they are mostly young adults – and yet there are 50,000 students at the State University across the road!

The local deanery also runs a theological training school for laity out of the building. This isn’t really connected with the CPU, but provides some valuable income for the work. I’m wondering if we could have other learning opportunities offered too...

After Mass

There is also some scope for developing the CPU as a place where students hang out during the day between classes –for study and just for relaxation – with someone on hand to be a support for them, spiritually and humanly. There’s space outside for half a basketball court and maybe court soccer. And I’ve already got my eye on a Ping-Pong table and a Foosball table!

Cristiada – The Cristeros War

Yesterday the movie Cristiada  (English title: For the Greater Glory) was released in Mexico. There’s a huge billboard on the road near the Centro de Proyección Universitaria. The movie is based on the war of the Cristeros (so named because of their battle cry “¡Viva Cristo Rey!”) against the Federal Government here in Mexico.

I’d heard about the anti-clerical laws in Mexico, some of which were only repealed in 1992. Some were still in force – for example, public religious services are banned without the permission of the government. This law was repealed just before the visit of the Pope! 

The church is still prohibited from owing media such as newspapers, radio and television. I noticed on the entry visa card I had to fill in there was a space for identifying your employment  - among the options were "Student", "Unemployed", "Worker" and "Minister of Religion". I wondered if: a) I was going to be refused entry by ticking "Minister of Religion" and b) they didn't consider being a priest was working! I was allowed in.

The Cristeros War, after brewing for a few years, broke out in 1927. Its immediate causes are in the severe application by President Plutarco Elias Calles of the anticlerical application provisions in the post revolutionary constitution of 1917. As he was a founder of the PRI (Partido Revolucionario Institucional) some see a political agenda in releasing the film now. Mexico will elect their next president later this year. The candidate of the PRI is one of the front runners.

Government Forces with Mass ornaments taken from Cristeros after their failed attempt to attack a train. The caption makes reference to the leadership of the "Bandit Friars Angulo, Vega and Vizcarra".

Under Elias Calles’ application of the anticlerical laws, priests were forbidden to wear clerical garb in public, priests were imprisoned for criticising the government, Church property was confiscated and desecrated, foreign priests and religious were expelled, monasteries, convents and Catholic Schools were closed.

In response the Church suspended all activity, including Masses and other celebrations for almost four years. Catholics, including some priests took up arms agains the Federal Government.

The banner across the tabernacle reads: "He is not here".

There is a fuller treatment of the issue at (where else?!) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cristero_War

The Society of Mary had a parish in Mexico City that catered for French citizens living here. They were not too affected by the conflict – they kept a low profile and Mexico City was not a conflict zone.

The war, while it was a bloody and cruel conflict, popped up several interesting characters – including Frs  Aristeo Pedroza and José Reyes Vega, who both became Generals in the Cristeros’ Army. Aristeo was known as the “Pure One” for his moral discipline. Fr Reyes on the other hand was known for his dissolute life and cruelty in battle. A cardinal called him a “black hearted assassin”! Both priests were killed in action.

Father General Miguel Anguiano Márques and some of his troops. He died in Mexico City in 1975.

The film centres around the character of General Enrique Gorostieta Velarde, who, bizarrely an anti-clericial liberal atheist, took up the military leadership of the Cristeros Army. Gorostieta did so motivated by the high pay he was offered, a desire to defend the rights of his wife (played by Eva Longoria – former desperate housewife!) to practice her faith and probably some political ambition. Apparently he took to wearing a crucifix and asserting that God was his strength. I’m off to see it tomorrow!

I've been in Toluca now for three days. Fr Jean, the Mexican Provincial, and a seminarian, David, picked me up at the modern clean (unlike LAX!) airport in Mexico City. David drove, and got lost twice, which pleased me. I was totally lost! The journey to Toluca took an hour and 40 minutes - almost all of it on a motorway and in the built up area of Mexico City. It is big! Very big - more than 20 million souls live in Mexico City.
I'm living for the moment in the Marist Parish of St Bernard of Siena. The parish is near the place I'll eventually be living in, the Centro de Proyección Universitaria (known as the CPU). The CPU is under going remodeling as it'll become the Mexican Province's formation house. It's scheduled for completion in August.
This is the parish church:

I'm in community here with Frs Jean and Oscar (the parish priest) and David - Fr Jean was born in France, but has lived here for more than thirty years. The other two are Mexicans. Both Jean and David leave in a month or so. David goes to Rome to continue his studies at the new international Marist theologate there and Jean will go to another house in Mexico (here they refer to Mexico City as "Mexico" or sometimes just "DF" - for Distrito Federal). Other Marists will come here in August, along with the seminarians.

Here's some initial shots of the interior of the parish church - which, by the way, dates from the 1600's!

The interior of the Church

La Virgen Dolorosa

El Divino Niño

 Loads of statues in the church - cared for with great devotion, but perhaps not quite as we would like them!













Toluca lies at 2667 metres above sea level. I've been a bit breathless if, say, I climb the stairs too quickly, and I have had a bit of a headache, but these effects are disappearing as I acclimatize.

The nights are cool - even cold - at night and so far, sunny and warm during the day. The air is very dry. It rained briefly yesterday evening but dried up quickly. The city has an alpine feel about it, similar to what I experienced in the Andes of Peru - thin dry air and bright sun.

The metropolitan city population is 1,610,000 which only puts it at eight in the list of largest Mexican cities! It is clean and well maintained - although the traffic is totally chaotic! People seem to stroll rather than stride as in other large cities. Perhaps because of the altitude?